Posted by Wayne Watson on Tue, Mar 27, 2012 @ 12:23 PM
CUSTOMER STATES THAT THE CAR STARTS BUT WILL NOT STAY RUNNING. PRIOR TO THIS, IF THE CAR IDLED TOO LONG (AT A STOP LIGHT) IT WOULD DIE, BUT RESTART. ALSO SAID THAT THE CAR HAD BEEN SURGING OR CHUGGING FOR ABOUT TWO WEEKS BEFORE NOW.
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TECHNICIAN VERIFIED CUSTOMER'S CONCERN. VEHICLE HAD A BAD MISFIRE AND WOULDN'T STAY RUNNING. PULLED CODES P0138 O2 HIGH VOLTAGE BANK 1 SENSOR 2, P0137 O2 VOLTAGE LOW BANK 1 SENSOR 2, P1391 IGNITION MISFIRE, P0174B BANK 2 LEAN. CHECKED CAMSHAFT AND CRANKSHAFT POSITION SENSORS WITH GRAPHING METER AND BOTH ARE PRODUCING A WAVEFORM PATTERN. HOOKED UP VACUUM GAUGE, AND AT OPEN THROTTLE DOES NOT GO ZERO. FOUND INTERMITTANT NO SPARK. VOLTAGE TO COIL PACK IS GOOD.
Wow this was a good one. After many testing procedures we found the flywheel was broken. It has been many years since I’ve seen a flywheel cause a problem. This is a hair puller! Problems like this come up once and a great while, but hey we are always up for a good challenge. Our first tip was that the timing was always changing. After confirming all of the things that could change timing were good it only left a few options. Fortunately the customer was committed to fixing the vehicle so we had to find the problem and fix it.
Posted by Wayne Watson on Fri, Feb 10, 2012 @ 02:13 PM
At some point your vehicle is going to set a check engine light.
Not all check engine lights indicate a problem. Your onboard computer system might not have communicated correctly, or there might be a component that has not done what it was supposed to do at a certain time. The possible problem could be a hard failure, where a component has stopped working. In most cases this type of issue is pretty straightforward in diagnostics and repair. The other kind of check engine light issue may not be so simple. This is where the more information provided is vital to arriving at a solution. Some examples of questions you might be asked:
When did the light come on?
Is there a running problem? Such as: a misfire/chugging/jerking or a noise that’s not been noticed before—or does it run okay?
Did you recently have a repair or do something to the vehicle? Such as: add fuel or change your air filter, etc.
Has there been a history of the light going on and off?
Any and all information that can be provided will exponentially assist in a more accurate and timely diagnostics and repair, which is helpful for the technician, for you, and for your car.
Call today if your check engine light is on and we will get to the bottom of it. 651-578-1500
Posted by Wayne Watson on Wed, Jan 11, 2012 @ 09:04 AM
Seems more times than not when a no start vehicle gets towed in and it turns out to be the fuel pump the gas tank is full. Why is that? Well it is known that a full tank of gas helps cool and lubricate the fuel pump. When the tank is run low the fuel pump tends to run hot which can be hard on an old pump. Another thing to consider is the fuel filter, cut apart a fuel filter and you will see what I’m talking about. They plug up and are real hard to blow through. Grab a straw and blow through it, then put your finger on the end and try blowing. A lot harder to blow right? Well that what happens with your fuel filter, causing the fuel pump to work a lot harder.
So here is the theory; Turns out most of these vehicles that get towed in with a faulty fuel pump and a full tank of gas have around 100,000 miles on them with a fuel filter that has not been changed. The fuel filter is plugged up which has caused the fuel pump to overheat. An overheated fuel pump gets blasted with some cold gas as your filling the vehicle which gives it the knockout punch.
How to prevent; Change your fuel filter every 30,000 miles and avoid running your gas tank low. Consider filling it when you get around ¼ tamk instead of empty. This will help you get the most out of your fuel pump.
Posted by Wayne Watson on Fri, Oct 07, 2011 @ 11:25 AM
Customer’s complaint was that the clutch was slipping and/or not engaging correctly. The mechanic test drove the vehicle and found when the turbo engaged the clutch would start slipping. Our diagnosis from the test drive was a faulty pressure plate. The customer approved a clutch replacement. You will be an amazed at what we found once the transmission was removed.
Check out this pressure plate, amazing that the vehicle still drove and the clutch worked fine until the turbo kicked in.
We were able to find a clutch kit that came with the pressure plate, flywheel and clutch disc. We would have to say this is the first time we have run across a pressure plate this bad and still functional. This could have done severe damage at some point very soon. If the pressure plate came apart it could have damaged the transmission case along with other components.
This customer was very surprised at how different the clutch operated when the repair was complete. He actually killed the engine a couple times leaving the parking lot. He was not used to quick response while releasing the clutch pedal.
Posted by Wayne Watson on Mon, Sep 19, 2011 @ 02:27 PM
Customer states that the vehicle seemed to overheat. Customer did add coolant to the vehicle when vehicle started to overheat.
The technician pressure tested the cooling system and found the water pump is leaking. Preformed test on fan clutch and found the fan clutch is not working. Coolant did get on belt which in poor condition. At this time it was suggest that Water pump, fan clutch and thermoset be replaced along with a coolant flush.
Also during the repair the radiator cap was found in poor shape so it was replaced.
The replacement water pump had a steel impeller not plastic like the old one. This condition left unattended could easily cause a head gasket failure. So getting it repaired sooner than later is a very wise decision.
Flushing the cooling system and preforming a block test on this vehicle with this type of condition is a good idea. This procedure would confirm that when the vehicle was over heated it did not do damage to the head gasket.
A cooling system block test helps determine if there are hydrocarbons in the cooling system. Hydro carbons in the cooling system confirm that the head gasket has failed and or the cylinder head has a crack in it.
Posted by Wayne Watson on Mon, Sep 12, 2011 @ 10:42 AM
- Give your car a good detailing. Power wash all grime and salt from the undercarriage. Give the entire car a good hand wax and leave chromed surfaces waxed until you're ready to remove the car from storage. Lubricate all rubber door and trunk seals. Then vacuum and clean the upholstery; you don't want any hidden food crumbs that might attract mice.
- Once you have your classic parked for the winter, change the oil an filter. Try to drain the oil while the car is still warm. Oil picks up chemical contaminants and particles which left unchanged can cause problem over the storage period.
Fresh grease in the front end and u joints if applicable, apply clean grease on all of the steering and suspension fittings.- Drain the fuel tank if you are going to store your car for more than six months. Once you have drained the tank, start the engine and run the rest of the gas out of the lines. Old gas will clog carburetors and cause valves to hang up. If you are only going to be storing your car for a few months you can add a can of gasoline stabilizer to delay fuel deterioration.
- Check the cooling system making sure the coolant if good for the cold weather. Also check the acidity levels to ensure they are correct.
- Remove the battery and store it carefully if you want it to survive. Use battery cleaner, then top it off with distilled water. Store it on a shelf in a dry place warm place, not on concrete. Charge it a few times over the winter.
- Raise the car and place jack stands under the suspension points. Remove the tires and stack them on a rubber mat or card board. Would also suggest a rubber mat under vehicle protecting the frame front rust.
- Before you encase your classic in its winter cocoon, the last things to do are;
- Crack your windows to allow for circulation
- Place opened boxes of baking soda in various places to absorb moisture
- Put a plastic bag over the carburetor to keep moisture out
- stuff an old rag up the tailpipe to keep mice out.
- Now you can cover up your classic car. The most important consideration when choosing a cover for your car's winter nap is selecting the right kind of fabric for your specific storage application. Cotton flannel fabrics breathe and allow air to circulate through them as well as being soft and easy on your cars paint and wax. Cotton/polyester fabrics have poor fluid resistance and trap heat and moisture. Plastic films should be avoided because they don't breathe.
- Indoor storage is the way to go; particularly for an older vehicle, even if the storage period is summer in the South. If you're going to be away for up to a couple of years, it definitely has to be kept inside. If you don't have the place, find an indoor storage facility--it will be money well spent. In fact, you also should get someone to take out the car periodically for an "exercising" drive. If you can't afford to do long-term storage right, you might have to pay a lot for restoration when you return. If outdoor "storage" is your only choice, don't give up. There's still a lot you can do to minimize the damage, particularly for seasonal storage.
Posted by Wayne Watson on Fri, Sep 09, 2011 @ 11:33 AM
The most important part of driving is having a vehicle that stops. Without a doubt brakes are the most important safety issues when driving your vehicle. Race car drivers will tell you it’s a lot more important stopping than to having a great amount of power or speed.
No vehicle will stop effectively with worn brake pads. Nobody wants to go through a stop sign or have an accident because they can’t stop. So it makes a lot more sense to be able to just touch the brakes lightly and the vehicle does exactly what it’s asked to do “stop”. At the end of the day, it’s the equipment, not the driver.
It is important to change your brake pads. The reason for this is because you need to get the maximum performance of your braking system by maintaining optimum friction pad depth
You can check the pad wear for yourself but when it comes to changing them, if you don’t know what you are doing it’s best left to a professional who does.
To check the brake pad wear you will need to view the pads from outside the front tire. With most vehicles now days it will be quite visible, and all you need to do is look through the outside of the wheel rims. That way it makes the pads very visible, unless of course they are worn. Sometimes it may be necessary to remove the wheel to be able to see the pads. If you are able to do all this, you will notice that the outside pad should be looking right at you and if you look at it from above, you will see that the pad will be pressed against the shiny metal rotor.
It’s important to note that there are two ways to determine whether or not the pads will need replacing:
The first is visually.
If you see that the depth of the pad is less that 1/4 inch. You need to replace it, and soon! If you see that it’s less than 1/8 inch, there isn’t any time to waste as you are getting really close on damaging the rotor. You need to then do it ASAP!
It’s not the same on every vehicle, but use it to help you along.
The second is by ear.
If you are hearing a screeching sound when you put your foot on the brake. Not good. You are overdue for a brake service. But, if it sounds more like scraping on metal, then I’m afraid you have damaged your rotors and you need to fix the brakes immediately otherwise you could cause major damage to the caliper.
Changing your brake pads too soon is much better than changing them too late. That way you will avoid more expensive repairs as well as unsafe driving. Prevent a problem before a problem occurs.
Qualtiy of brake pad;
Don’t cheat yourself here; brakes are true with many things you buy “you get what you pay for”. Buying cheap organic pads for a vehicle that requires metallic or ceramic pads will short pad life and lengthen stopping distance.
Posted by Wayne Watson on Fri, Jul 08, 2011 @ 01:37 PM
One over looked things on a hot summer day is road debris that gets trapped between the radiator and a/c condenser blocking air flow. This blockage of air flow can cause the engine to run hotter and the a/c to blow warmer than normal air. This left UN noticed can cause major damage to your engine.
If you are planning a long summer road trip you or your local mechanic should take a look at intake fins of your radiator to see if there is overstuffed insect / road debris. Are you wondering is there a safe way to effectively clean the fins without bending or damaging them? Why the answer is yes there is actually a special tool for doing this procedure which looks like this.
This is a great and safe way to clean road debris from your radiator / condenser area. We have found just about everything packed into a radiator. Plastic bags, dead mice, birds, Candy wrappers, leaf, snow fence and etc. When people call me with a new overheating issue, the first thing I suggest to them is to clean out their old radiator and see if the problem goes away.
So next times you get an oil change have someone take a peek at your radiator and see what kind of road debris you have?
Posted by Wayne Watson on Thu, Jun 30, 2011 @ 10:32 AM
What kind of games did you play on your family road trips when you were a youngster? Maybe some of these will bring back memories.
License Plate Games
- Write down the letters from the first five license plates you see. Try to make words by scrambling the letters.
- Taking turns with each license plate you see, players write down the numbers from the license plates. Add up the numbers to see who gets the highest number.
- Give each child a blank map and have him color in the state for each license plate he sees from there.
Movie Lines
Take turns saying a line from a movie and the other players try to guess what movie it’s from.
Counting Cars
Make a list of all types of vehicles – semi-trucks, mini-vans, sports cars, sedans, SUVs, pick-up trucks, etc. – and count how many you see. This game is good for counting skills for younger children. Before the game starts, have everyone predict which type of vehicle they’ll see the most. Who was right?
Name that Tune
Sing or hum a song and see how quickly other players can guess what song it is. Try this game with TV show theme songs.
Scavenger Hunt
Make a list of things for your children to look for on their trip. Have them watch out the windows and check off things as they see them. Some suggestions: a flashing yellow light, a or red barn, an owl, a Burger King, a School, a Fire Truck, a sign with a D in it, a trailer, a blue semi-truck, a bicycle, a chain fence.
The Group Story
One person starts a story and stops in mid-sentence. The next person finishes the sentence and adds more to the story. By the end of the story, everyone in the car has contributed and the story has taken lots of twists and turns. Fun to see where this ends up.
Five Letters
Say five random letters of the alphabet. Come up with a silly sentence with words that start with those letters. “W” “A” “W” “H” “D” could be When Are We Having DairyQueen. This game can be a license plate game, too. Take the first five or six letters you see on license plates and use them.
Slug Bug Game
Oh yes don’t’ forget my favorite road game of all time. For those of you who are new to this game, here is how it goes. The rules are pretty simple but there are many different ways to play it. This is how my friends, family and I play the slug bug game.
When you see a VW beetle (new or old) you punch everyone close to you and yell "Slug Bug! No returns!!"
No returns means they cannot hit you back or the penalty is another hit by you for breaking the no returns rule.
The person who gives the most slugs wins.
Posted by Wayne Watson on Mon, Jun 27, 2011 @ 10:54 AM
Ever walk out of the mall or theme park wondering where you parked your vehicle? Yeah you lost your car. Well here are some car-care tips to help you out. Remembering where your vehicle is parked is the last thought in your mind. If you are traveling with exhausted kids or driving an unfamiliar rental car, finding your vehicle can become even more daunting.
Save yourself some frustration by taking pictures of where your vehicle is parked. Parking lots are divided into themed sections which include section and row numbers Taking pictures of the signs as well as other identifying markings, will make it easier for you and your family to locate your vehicle.
If you don't have access to a digital camera remember most cell phones have one now days. Also be sure to write the section and row numbers down or record the information in your cell phone.
When I was a kid and my Aunt came to visit she loved going to the mall shopping. She would pack up and make a day out of it. At the end of her shopping day we would always get a phone call from her stating she could not find her car. So we would head to the mall, pick her up and drive around the many parking lots until we found her car.